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A Doughnut is essentially a very simple delicacy. It is a deep-fried piece of dough or batter (sweet or savoury) with coatings/injections of flavours. In terms of reviewing, the doughnut should be treated like a pasta dish. This is true in so many ways.
Firstly, pasta is shaped in different ways. You have fettucine, spaghette, penne, spirals, ravioli, etc. The List goes on. This is no different In the World of Doughnuts. Doughnuts can be knotted, formed into rings, balls, bearclaws, eclairs and even in the case of Donut King, dinosaurs.
The actual pasta itself can be made in different ways. There is stock-standard dried supermarket pasta, which is perfectly acceptable for general consumption and the fresh-gourmet egg-based noodles (of both Italy and Asia). Similarly with doughnuts, the dough can be made to create a light airy texture or a thicker cake texture.
The dough should, in my opinion be light and airy, yet chewy. Not too sweet, not dry, not bready. The outer should be a light golden brown from frying. But most importantly, just like a pasta sauce should not overpower the pasta, the doughnut flavouring must not overpower the dough. In my wide experience of doughnut consumption, I have come to the following conclusion that would serve you well in your reviews. As celebrity chef Neil Perry* might say "The dough is the hero!".
Happy Reviewing,
The Doughnut Man
* Neil Perry's saying is actually to do with pasta. He says "The Pasta is the hero!"